Dive into the World of Ralph Lauren Obsession: One Collector's Most Coveted Treasures That Refuse to Leave His Side
Imagine the rush of discovering hidden gems that encapsulate decades of style and prestige – pieces so iconic they could make any fashion enthusiast's pulse quicken. That's the magic of collecting Ralph Lauren's rarest items, where every find feels like unearthing a piece of history. But here's where it gets intriguing: in a world buzzing with fast fashion debates, is hoarding these vintage luxuries a guilty pleasure or a noble pursuit? Stick around, and let's explore one man's lifelong passion that might just challenge your views on collecting.
No one stumbles upon Thoroughbred New York by sheer coincidence. Tucked away on the second floor of a historic building in Kingston, New York, Laird Mackintosh's boutique is dedicated exclusively to vintage Ralph Lauren apparel and accessories – a haven for collectors who know exactly what to expect. 'Visitors come prepared for an immersive experience,' Mackintosh explains, who fell head over heels for Ralph's designs back in his teenage years. 'While I might scour flea markets dreaming of a single classic tweed jacket or perhaps a cozy sweater on a lucky day, Ralph Lauren aficionados? They often feel overwhelmed with delight, as the whole shop is a celebration of his vision.'
Mackintosh's fascination ignited in the mid-1980s during his stint at a Polo store in Calgary, Alberta. Fast-forward through years filled with endless navy blazers, and he's emerged as a leading authority on Lauren's creations, boasting a personal trove of unforgettable items ranging from rugged western outfits to plaid-patterned trunks and even a scarce vial of 1970s Polo scent. As the sole outpost of its kind beyond Japan, Thoroughbred draws pilgrims – fellow devotees and creative professionals seeking inspiration. To offer a glimpse into this treasure trove, Mackintosh guides us through some standout pieces from Lauren's peak period, each one a story of discovery and enduring appeal.
Polo Ralph Lauren Tweed Suit, 1982
This robust tweed ensemble, complete with a double-breasted 'Derby' vest, remains a pinnacle of excitement for me. I'd admired its photograph in the fall 1982 Polo catalog for what seemed like forever, only to spot it unexpectedly at a Connecticut estate sale. Miraculously, the sale also yielded another exquisite three-piece tweed suit from the very same catalog, which I scooped up too. The original owner clearly had impeccable judgment – picture him browsing that 1982 catalog in a Polo boutique, declaring, 'I'll take both!' It's a reminder of how curated collections can tell tales of refined tastes.
Polo Ralph Lauren Shearling Overcoat, 1977
This coat holds a special place in my heart because I owned it for some time before realizing it was the exact one featured in the legendary 'Cowboy in the Snow' image. Back in 1977, Ralph pioneered his mailers – promotional pamphlets mailed to clients – and this shot of a tuxedo-clad cowboy with a weathered hat and coat leading his horse through snow was groundbreaking. It blended high-society elegance with rugged elements, a motif that became central to Lauren's style. The overcoat itself is a masterpiece: thick, belted, and lined with luxurious alpaca fur. And this is the part most people miss – how these early campaigns laid the groundwork for Lauren's ability to mix worlds, creating timeless appeal.
Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Coat, 1990s; Tasseled Silk Scarf, 1984
The Polo Coat is often hailed as the cornerstone of Ralph Lauren's legacy. This classic double-breasted overcoat, featuring peaked lapels, cuffs, and a partial belt, is usually crafted in camel hair but also appears in tweed or cashmere. It's a staple in my collection, with multiple variations, but this 1990s edition stands out for its distinctive herringbone weave in camel fabric – a true unicorn for collectors. I'd heard whispers of its existence but was floored when it became mine. The accompanying tasseled silk scarf, a gem from the Fall 1984 'Thoroughbred' campaign, adds to the allure. For beginners wondering, think of it as the ultimate versatile outerwear that bridges casual and formal, embodying Lauren's ethos of effortless sophistication.
Polo Ralph Lauren Tweed Jacket, 1970s
Lauren's iconic 1970s herringbone tweed jacket, boasting bellows pockets, a buttoned neck strap, and suede patches at the elbows drawing from traditional British hunting wear, was one of his groundbreaking designs. The company still produces a version called the RL67, and I'm perpetually searching for these. This particular piece mirrors the original perfectly and is essentially the ultimate prize for Polo enthusiasts. To me, it's a jacket brimming with character and emotion, with tailoring and fabric that set the standard. At over 50 years old, I still don it for special moments, proving how well-crafted pieces can defy time – a concept that sparks debate: is investing in vintage sustainable, or does it perpetuate exclusivity?
Polo Ralph Lauren 'Buzzy Kerbox' Blazer, 1980
Dubbed the 'Buzzy Kerbox' blazer in honor of the renowned surfer and Polo model, this piece is noteworthy for showcasing Ralph Lauren's debut bullion crest for Polo. I acquired the crest itself at the Polo shop where I worked as a teen in 1983 or '84, and it's adorned various navy blazers over four decades. Now, it resides on a sturdy doeskin blazer from around 1980, with reinforced seams that scream authenticity. During my shop days, the famous Bruce Weber photo of Buzzy in this blazer hung on the wall, a daily inspiration. This raises an interesting point: how do personal stories attached to items elevate their value, or is it just nostalgia at play?
Polo Ralph Lauren Hardshell Luggage, 1987
This exceptional set of luggage in Stewart tartan plaid is a cherished part of my collection, having recently joined my wife and me on a cross-country drive. I sourced it from the estate of a prominent record executive – someone who once signed artists like Prince and later chaired Martha Stewart's media empire. After his passing, I traveled to his opulent Long Island mansion to collect it, some pieces even tagged with the Carlisle Hotel's address in New York. Imagine the scene: hauling this Polo tartan luggage from Long Island to Manhattan back then – pure style in motion. But here's where it gets controversial – in an era of eco-consciousness, does flaunting vintage luxury luggage promote responsible consumption or just fuel a cycle of desire?
Polo Ralph Lauren Cologne, 1978
The inaugural Polo Cologne for Men, launched in 1978, was my very first fragrance purchase, and I still use it today. Its flask-inspired bottle, crafted by Ralph, is legendary. Few know about the once-available limited silver edition, which is exceedingly scarce and a favorite of mine. For those new to this, it's like discovering a time capsule in a bottle – a scent that captures the essence of adventurous, masculine elegance.
In sharing these finds, one can't help but ponder the broader implications of such collecting. Is it elitist to obsess over items that demand deep pockets and insider knowledge? Or does it celebrate craftsmanship and history in a disposable world? What's your take – do you see vintage Ralph Lauren collecting as a passion worth pursuing, or a outdated indulgence? Drop your opinions in the comments below; I'd love to hear differing views!
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Jeremy Freed is a contributor to GQ Recommends, specializing in horology (that's the fancy term for watches). He first delved into watches while editing a Canadian men's publication, and over the past ten years, he's been fascinated by what keeps these timepieces sparking such intense enthusiasm and longing... Read More
